The people! It’s all about the people who have contributed to building these communities,” says photographer Sophia Wilson, one half of the creative duo that includes Iza El Nems, who have documented New York City and its inherent cultural queues and portraits of individuals who cherish their nativeness as much as the descendants from nations abroad.
This creates the intrinsic sartorial nature of the Big Apple, fostering styles that spawned streetwear and have been a harbor for creatives. Thus, Lovers & Friends, El Nems, and Wilson’s sincerest interpretation of the many native New Yorkers in their homes wearing their individuality and heritage on their sleeve.
El Nems and Wilson, native New Yorkers, created the series “Lovers & Friends” as a “love letter” to NYC. El Nems describes it, “Sophia and I are both native New Yorkers and as we’ve grown up and [have] seen the city change at a rapidly increasing pace.”
“’Lovers & Friends’ is our love letter to NYC and came at a time when we felt like we could hardly recognize our own neighborhoods. Without funding – and entirely out of pocket – Sophia and I worked in unison without a team behind us. But the images speak true to the people we’ve photographed and their individual stories; I can’t help but find myself resonating with them all.”
She continues about the subjects of some of the photos, “There is something about Amy and Jules kissing on the fire escape with the BQE right behind them that makes my heart sing, something about Armando’s gaze, Jupiter’s story and her strength, and Lisa’s innocence that connects me to these images and the individuals behind them. In awe of the energy of NY–motivating, fast-paced, culturally ambiguous, and creatively inspiring–we really just wanted to capture what is at the heart and soul of this city.”
The subjects are captured in unassuming moments, constructed by, and with the inclusion of the creative duo, El Nems and Wilson. Styled in everything from NY logo hats, traditional cultural attire, favored denim, tees, “More Uptempo” Nike sneakers from a peak New York style era, custom knitted clothing, and revealing undergarments in images that resemble a heroin-chic Calvin Klein ad, are all omnipresent among New York streetstyle, seen in this series. “It’s about emphasizing and shedding light on those who make this city what it is. NYC is a melting pot. It is free! It’s people are powerful!”
The aim is to reclaim the heart and soul of the city amidst rapid changes – gentrification. Working without a team, they documented individuals who contribute to the essence in some capacity. Wilson expresses, “Witnessing the city change so rapidly and all of our favorite mom-and-pop businesses struggle to survive was a huge driving force for this photo series, as well as the affordable housing crisis that has become so out of control in recent years here, especially for born and raised New Yorkers in their own neighborhoods.”
“I grew up in Union Square in the early 2000s, and downtown NYC was definitely a place that made me extremely comfortable with expressing myself through fashion,” Wilson describes. “I can confidently say that I have always dressed uniquely like myself, even in situations where there has been peer pressure to conform.”
The photos capture the diverse energy of NYC, its intrinsic ethnic makeup, and its culturally rich environment. The project is an ongoing effort to highlight people in the places that define the city. Wilson and El Nems express themselves through fashion, drawing inspiration from their backgrounds, with El Nems’ grandmother influencing her greatly.
“I always felt comfortable expressing myself through fashion and styling – my Teta [Grandma in Arabic] has always been a major source of fashion inspiration,” she explains. “Eclectic and fabulous, her closet is full of colorful [Roberto] ‘Cavallis,’ sequin Miu Miu jackets, and large tutu-esc skirts from her favorite store, Strawberry’s,” she describes of a New York City affordable fashion staple popular over a decade ago.
“My closet is a more NY-centric toned-down version of hers, but she is an inspiration nonetheless. Born and raised in NYC, sneakers were a big part of my childhood [to] early adulthood. Sort of a hodge podge of it all.”
With styling primarily sourced from the subjects’ own wardrobes, the duo captured the genuine personalities of their subjects. The intimate setting added a personal touch, ensuring authentic reflections of these participants. El Nems styled the subjects in their own garments and some of the products provided by Nike.
“All styling for the series – except for any Nike products that were worn in the last few shoots – came from the closets of those we were photographing,” she explains. “We photographed our subjects in their bedrooms–arguably a most intimate space. We wanted to stay true to those we were photographing, ensuring personalities were at the forefront of the image.”
Personal style played a crucial role in this documentary project, reflecting the essence of the diverse individuals who make NYC their home. “We wanted our subjects to shine through the images as individuals. Outfits speak to mannerisms, personalities, behaviors, etc.”
Styling was carefully curated by El Nems, bringing out the unique personalities of each subject, aligning with the importance of authenticity in Wilson’s documentary photography. “Since this was a documentary project, the personal style of the subjects was extremely important,” Wilson notes.
Transformative expression of self, drawing inspiration from experiences, and resisting stylistic categorization have led El Nems and Wilson to this project. As a painter and creative/art director, Iza El Nems’ journey involves impactful and bold creations, with “Lovers & Friends” evolving into a visual landscape of people encountered. For Sophia Wilson, the project aligns with her past portraiture works focused on the coming of age in New York City.
The grassroots nature of this self-funded project and the experience of their first solo exhibition added unique aspects to the “Lovers & Friends” endeavor. With the help of Strada.World, a digital-first gallery that opened its first location in Lower East Side Manhattan at 329 Broome Street, the opening exhibit brought the photos to life. Wilson references that “Lovers & Friends is an extension of my photo works in the past.”
“My work tends to be portraiture revolving around coming of age in NYC, so this was certainly in line with that. The only thing that felt extremely different was how grassroots this was – we shot the entire project out of pocket before getting any funding or partnerships to reimburse us. Also, this was my first ever solo exhibition so that was a brand new process for me as well.”
El Nems emphasizes the importance of community in preserving the true essence of New York, expressing concern about the imbalance between newcomers and those displaced. She affirms, “Because that’s all we have left. That’s community! Without community, there is no New York. So many people love this fake movie-set version of NYC without appreciating everything else that comes with it. It’s important to keep that community and those memories alive. There is not an even balance between those who move in – versus those who are pushed out.”
Making this project come to life is therapeutic for the duo, a necessary effort to capture communities before irreversible changes occur. “Hopefully by documenting NYC amidst rapid gentrification, we are inspiring people all over the world to support their local communities as opposed to the major corporations that are infiltrating,” Wilson identifies. “It’s also just a therapeutic process to document our communities before they are completely changed. Someone has to do it and it feels like the right thing to do.”
When EL Nems and Wilson sat together to review the initial contact sheets, sharing a moment of awe and joy, the duo felt the project would be recognized. Wilson first realized the broader resonance of the photos when she posted one on Instagram.
“I realized people were really resonating with the photos the first time I posted one of them on Instagram, as silly as it sounds. I did not realize we would get such an overwhelming response, and it propelled me to continue the series,” says Wilson.
Surprised by the overwhelming response that encouraged them to continue the series, El Nems and Wilson are energized to further document the people and intrinsic streetstyle that New York City has to offer. The “Lovers & Friends” series captures the essence of diverse inner-borough cultures, showcasing portraits of individuals who value their native-New York roots and celebrate their heritage from various nations.